Some may call it vanity, but where is the harm in appreciating beautiful things, things that are a sheer pleasure just to behold ― even if not to own?
There are the exquisite couture dresses that only a handful of women around the world can afford to purchase without blinking an eye. Then there are the ready-to-wear creations by distinguished fashion houses, which would still burn a hole in most people’s pockets. The latest “it” bags from a designer label carry such hefty price tags that we refer to them as “investment pieces,” as if “investing” in a bag absolves us of the guilt of spending thousands of dollars on a handbag. Ah, what guilty pleasures.
Then there are the perfumes that come in beautifully crafted bottles. Every time we take a whiff of these perfumes, we partake in the brand’s image and heritage ― so the marketing people tell us. Feeling blue? How about grabbing a lipstick in a jewel-like case bearing the logo of a coveted fashion brand? There is a reason why I own ― let’s say “many” ― tubes of lipstick, though I hardly ever wear makeup: It is an instant fix for the “oh-so-blah” feeling, many women will agree.
Recently, I discovered an instant fix that cost nothing. “Esprit Dior,” an exhibition of Christian Dior creations through the decades along with artwork by prominent Korean artists commissioned for the occasion, is an homage to the pursuit of beauty and excellence that was instantly uplifting. From the fabric architecture piece by Suh Do-ho, modeled after the facade of the House of Dior in Paris, through which visitors enter the exhibition to Bahk Seon-ghi’s mesmerizing installation inspired by the brand’s iconic perfume and all the Dior dresses and accessories in between, the exhibition at the Dongdaemun Design Plaza shows the transformative power of fashion as a form of art. Who could deny that a dress made with thousands of handcrafted flower petals sewn on by hand is a piece of art, only it is meant to be worn, not hung and displayed.
The show, timed to coincide with the opening of Asia’s largest Christian Dior flagship store in the posh Cheongdam-dong, is the latest in a number of exhibitions hosted by global luxury fashion brands in Seoul. Earlier this year, Louis Vuitton held a small exhibition featuring a 3-D presentation of its runway show and various fashion paraphernalia with the LV logo. Last year, the iconic French fashion house Chanel held an exhibition at the DDP that traced the places that inspired Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel accompanied by Chanel’s fashion, jewelry and perfume creations.
It should be noted that “Prada Transformer,” organized by Miuccia Prada’s Fondazione Prada, predated these shows by several years. In 2009, an oddly shaped structure was temporarily located adjacent to the Joseon-period Gyeonghuigung Palace. The structure of steel beams and high-tech membrane designed by Rem Koolhaas was the venue for a series of events that included a fashion exhibition, a film festival, a fashion show and an art exhibition, with the structure turned around four times using cranes to accommodate the different activities. It was an event that put Seoul on the map of cool.
The fact that global luxury brands are choosing Seoul to show their offerings ― Chanel presented its cruise collection fashion show at the DDP ― is a sign that Korea is an attractive market for them. Of course, there are those who would say these events are an attempt to brand high-end fashion companies that promote conspicuous consumption as sponsors of art. Some would dismiss these shows as blatant commercialism given a veneer of culture, an attempt to elevate a fashion business into a cultural institution. Yet others would say that the exhibitions exploit the cultural vanity of those who want to be seen as art aficionados with good taste, not merely well-heeled shoppers.
Be that as it may, a thing of beauty is a thing of beauty, no matter its origin or the motivation for its creation. So why not indulge in the pleasures of viewing a showcase of creativity and superb craftsmanship? There is so much ugliness around us today that we should not be thought frivolous for wanting to be surrounded by beautiful things that lift our spirits, even if for a fleeting moment.
A point to ponder. The success enjoyed by the French purveyors of luxury today owe much to the Sun King, Louis XIV, who gathered the continent’s finest craftsmen to his kingdom with the aim of making France the most elegant nation in Europe. His endeavor has paid off handsomely for his countrymen who, to this day, lead the global luxury market, a market that reached 224 billion euros ($245 billion) last year and is expected to grow by 2 to 4 percent this year.
Kim Hoo-ran is an editorial writer at The Korea Herald. She can be reached at khooran@heraldcorp.com. ― Ed.